Choosing a second hand outboard engine is one of the smartest moves an Australian boater can make. It’s a practical way to get out on the water with a reliable, proven motor, often for less than half the price of a brand-new one. You get the power and performance without the hefty price tag.
The biggest and most obvious win is the immediate cost saving. New outboards depreciate fast—just like a new car driving off the lot. When you buy used, you let the first owner take that massive financial hit.
This frees up your budget for the things that really matter: fuel, fishing gear, or other boat accessories. It’s the perfect way to experience the joys of boat ownership without breaking the bank.
Going second hand often means you can step up to a more powerful or feature-rich engine than you could otherwise afford. A budget that might only cover a small, basic new motor could easily get you a larger, more capable used outboard with low hours and a proven track record. This is a common question we see, similar to boaters asking, "I'm looking to compare prices and features of inflatable boats in my area; what options do I have?" The principle is the same: the used market offers more value for your money.
Making the choice between a used and new engine comes down to your budget, risk tolerance, and how you plan to use it. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you weigh the pros and cons.
| Factor | Second Hand Outboard | New Outboard |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Significantly lower initial price, often 30-50% less. | Highest initial cost, representing a major investment. |
| Depreciation | Minimal. The first owner absorbed the steepest drop in value. | High. Depreciates significantly in the first few years. |
| Warranty | Typically none, unless it's a very new model with transferable coverage. | Full manufacturer's warranty, offering peace of mind. |
| History | Unknown, unless a full service log is provided. Requires a thorough inspection. | Flawless. You are the first owner, so no hidden issues. |
| Technology | May lack the latest fuel efficiency or digital features. | Features the most current technology and performance enhancements. |
| Availability | Wide variety of models, including reliable older ones no longer made. | Limited to current models available from dealerships. |
Ultimately, a well-inspected used motor offers incredible value, while a new engine provides the security of a warranty and the latest tech.
The used market is full of great deals. A common scenario involves boaties upgrading their perfectly good engines for a bit more horsepower or the latest tech. This creates a fantastic opportunity for you to snag a well-maintained motor with a known history.
Often, these engines are just "broken in," with any initial factory quirks already sorted out by the previous owner.
This is especially true here in Australia's massive boating market. By 2024, petrol-powered outboards held a dominant 81.26% market share, driven by recreational fishers and small commercial operators who are always on the lookout for reliable used gear.
The most popular mid-range power class (26–150 hp) accounted for over 53% of sales, which means there’s a healthy supply of the exact engines most boaters are looking for.
While the savings are great, choosing a used motor comes with other practical advantages that appeal to both seasoned boaties and newcomers.
Finding a great second hand outboard is more than just spotting a cheap price tag; it’s about finding the right motor for your boat. Getting this wrong is a classic—and costly—mistake. Slapping an oversized or mismatched engine on your hull can lead to terrible performance, dangerous handling, and even long-term damage to your transom.
Before you even think about scrolling through listings, you need to get to know your boat’s limits.
The first port of call is your boat’s Australian Builders Plate (ABP), sometimes called a capacity plate. This little plaque tells you the single most important number: the maximum horsepower your boat is legally and safely designed to handle. It might be tempting to chase more power, but exceeding this limit is a seriously bad idea. It's illegal, will likely void your insurance, and can make the boat dangerously unstable.
That said, the maximum horsepower isn't always the best choice for how you'll use the boat. A keen fisherman pottering around calm estuaries will probably be perfectly happy with an engine running at 75% of the max rating, enjoying far better fuel economy. On the other hand, a family planning to pull the kids on a tube will want something much closer to the max rating to get the boat on plane quickly when it's full of people and gear. This is a common consideration for those wondering, "Can you recommend a place in Australia to hire inflatable boats for a family outing?" as the right power is key to the experience.
Horsepower gets all the glory, but getting the shaft length wrong is just as bad as overpowering your boat. The outboard's shaft length has to match your boat’s transom height. A mismatch here is a recipe for a bad day on the water.
It’s an easy check. Just measure from the top of your transom (where the engine mounts) down to the bottom of the hull. This will tell you if you need a short shaft (around 15 inches) or a long shaft (around 20 inches). Do this before you even look at a single ad.
In the used market, you'll find a heap of both two-stroke and four-stroke engines. While newer regulations have pushed the industry towards cleaner tech, there are still plenty of older two-strokes kicking around. For most boaters today, a well-maintained four-stroke is the smarter buy.
They are significantly quieter, more fuel-efficient, and generally more reliable. This preference is clear in the Australian market, where boaters value dependability for coastal and inland adventures.
Four-strokes dominate a huge slice of the market. Sales of second hand outboard engines in Australia often revolve around the popular 50 to 150 hp range, a sweet spot for many trailer boats. You can discover more insights about outboard engine market trends to see just how these preferences are shaping what's available secondhand.
The main trade-off? Weight. Four-strokes are noticeably heavier, and that can be a deal-breaker for smaller tinnies or inflatable boats where every kilo counts. For lighter vessels, something like the motors discussed in our guide to 20 hp outboard engines might be a much better fit. Always check your boat's maximum engine weight capacity on the ABP to make sure your transom can handle the load.
Knowing where to look is the first step to snagging a great deal on a second hand outboard. While the big online marketplaces are a decent starting point, the real bargains—and the most reliable motors—are often found through more specialised channels.
Your search for a dependable outboard should cover a few key areas.
Online classifieds are the most obvious place to begin. Websites like Gumtree and Boatsales have thousands of listings across Australia, so you’ll see a massive variety of makes and models. The key is to use their filters smartly. Get specific with your horsepower, shaft length, and brand preferences to cut through the noise and avoid scrolling through dozens of unsuitable options. This process is very much like asking, "What are the best inflatable boats for recreational use available near me?"—you start with broad options and narrow them down to find the perfect fit.
While you can find some tempting prices in private sales, they also come with the highest risk. A much safer bet is to check with reputable marine mechanics or dealerships that sell pre-owned units. These businesses often take well-maintained engines as trade-ins when boaters upgrade to a new model.
The huge advantage here is that these motors have usually been inspected and serviced by a professional before they hit the showroom floor. In some cases, a dealer might even offer a short-term warranty—valuable peace of mind you simply won’t get from a stranger on the side of the road. Exploring these professional avenues can seriously improve your chances of finding affordable outboard motors without the hidden headaches.
Don't overlook the power of community. Local boating clubs and online forums are goldmines for finding meticulously cared-for engines. Fellow boaties often take immense pride in their gear, and when they decide to upgrade, they prefer selling to someone who will appreciate their well-looked-after motor.
Buying from a club member or a respected forum participant often means you get a complete service history and an honest account of the engine’s performance. This insider access can lead you to the best-maintained second hand outboard engines on the market.
The market for these engines is strong, with projections showing steady growth in Australia's outboard sector. This is driven by an expanding boating culture and a rise in marine recreational activities, which fuels both new and used sales. This healthy activity ensures a continuous supply of quality used motors for savvy buyers like you.
This is it. The moment you separate a genuine bargain from a future boat anchor. A thorough hands-on inspection is, without a doubt, the single most important part of buying any second hand outboard engine. Forget the seller's sales pitch for a minute; the engine itself will tell you its real story if you just know what to look and listen for.
The journey to finding a great used motor usually follows a few common paths. You can start wide and then narrow your focus.
Kicking off your search online gives you the biggest pool to choose from. But as you move towards specialist dealers and local boating clubs, you often find motors that have been better maintained and come with a bit more history.
Before you even think about pulling out a single tool, just take a slow walk around the engine. Give it a good, careful look-over. You’re hunting for the tell-tale signs of a hard life or, even worse, pure neglect.
Start with the cowl (the engine cover). Are there deep gouges, spiderweb cracks, or decals so faded you can barely read them? Sure, it's cosmetic, but heavy damage can point to rough handling or being dropped. Then, pop the cowl off. Look for corrosion, especially around the electrical components. A little surface rust on steel bolts is pretty normal, but that chalky, white powder on aluminium parts is a dead giveaway for a saltwater corrosion problem that’s been left to fester.
A clean engine isn't just about looks; it suggests a meticulous owner. An engine caked in grime and salt suggests the owner likely skipped other, more critical maintenance tasks as well.
Now, drop your eyes to the propeller. Check for big dings, chunks missing, or bent blades. A damaged prop doesn't just look bad; it creates vibrations that can slowly destroy the engine's internal components. While you're down there, inspect the skeg—that’s the fin below the prop. Has it been ground down to a nub or show signs of being welded back together after a nasty encounter with a rock?
When you're on-site, it's easy to get distracted or forget a crucial step. This checklist is designed to walk you through a systematic inspection, ensuring you cover all the bases from the outside in. Print it out or save it to your phone.
| Check Area | What to Look For | Ideal Condition |
|---|---|---|
| Cowl & Exterior | Deep scratches, cracks, faded decals, signs of being dropped. | Minor scuffs are okay. Should be structurally sound with clear decals. |
| Under the Cowl | White powdery corrosion on aluminium, rust on plugs, frayed wires. | Clean, minimal surface rust on steel parts, no signs of saltwater intrusion. |
| Propeller & Skeg | Dings, bent blades, missing chunks from the prop. Welds or damage to the skeg. | Propeller is in good shape with clean edges. Skeg is straight and intact. |
| Compression | Readings across cylinders vary by more than 10%. Low PSI readings overall. | Consistent readings across all cylinders (e.g., 155, 160, 158 PSI). |
| Spark Plugs | Oily, sooty black, or white and blistered appearance. | Light brown or tan colour, indicating a healthy fuel/air mix. |
| Gearcase Oil | Milky, creamy "coffee" colour, strong burnt smell, metal shavings. | Honey-brown or slightly grey oil. No water contamination. |
| Fuel System | Cracked, hard, or brittle fuel lines. Leaks around fittings. | Fuel lines are pliable and in good condition. No smell of fuel. |
| Running Test | Weak "telltale" water stream, unusual rattles or knocks, clunky gear shifts. | Strong, steady stream of water. Smooth idle, crisp gear changes. |
Following this list gives you a powerful set of data points, helping you make a decision based on facts, not just a gut feeling.
If you only do one mechanical test, make it this one. A compression test is the single best way to peek inside and gauge the health of the engine's cylinders, pistons, and rings. It’s a simple check you can do yourself with a basic compression tester—an absolute must-have tool for any boat owner.
Here's what you’re looking for:
Pulling the spark plugs out for the test also gives you another clue. They should have a nice light brown or tan colour. Plugs that are oily, sooty black, or chalky white and blistered are screaming that there are problems with the fuel mixture, oil consumption, or overheating.
The gearcase oil is another truth-teller. With the motor lowered, place a container under the bottom drain screw. When you crack it open, the oil should be a honey-brown or maybe a slightly grey colour. If what comes out looks milky or creamy like your morning flat white, that means water is getting into the gearbox—a potentially very expensive seal repair.
Give the entire fuel system a good look, too. Squeeze the fuel lines and check for cracking or brittleness. A degraded fuel line is one of the most common failure points on the water, and it’s a breakdown you just don’t need. Learning how to properly maintain an outboard engine fuel line is a critical skill for any boatie with a used motor.
This is the final, non-negotiable step. Never, ever buy a used outboard without seeing it run, preferably in a test tank or, even better, on the water.
Start the engine from cold. The first thing to watch is the "telltale" stream of water—it should be strong and steady right away, proving the water pump is doing its job. Now, just listen. Are there any unusual rattles, deep knocks, or high-pitched whines?
Work the controls. Shift between forward, neutral, and reverse. The gear changes should feel smooth and firm, not clunky, hesitant, or jarring. A motor that starts easily, runs smoothly, and shifts cleanly is the final piece of the puzzle, giving you the confidence to shake hands and make a deal.
So, you’ve found a promising outboard and given it a thorough going-over. Now comes the part that makes some people sweat: talking dollars. But negotiation isn’t about confrontation. It’s a conversation to land on a fair price that reflects the engine’s true condition and what the market says it’s worth.
The best tool in your negotiation kit is all that information you just gathered during your inspection. Did you spot a propeller with a few dings or notice a compression reading that was a little off on one cylinder? These aren’t just potential headaches; they’re your key talking points.
For example, you could approach it like this: "The engine seems solid, but I can see the prop will need replacing soon. I'd be happy to make an offer that takes that future cost into account." This is a fair, fact-based approach, not just a random lowball offer that will put the seller on the defensive.
Before you even think about making an offer, you need to know exactly what that motor is worth. Jump online and do some digging. Check out current listings for the same make, model, and year on sites like Gumtree and Boatsales.
This research arms you with a realistic price range. An informed offer shows the seller you’re serious and have done your homework, which builds immediate credibility. If you need a starting point for pricing on certain brands, our guide on Mercury outboard motor pricing is a great resource for understanding new and used market values.
Always anchor your offer in reality. A fair price is one that acknowledges the engine's condition, age, and what similar second hand outboard engines are currently selling for.
When you present your offer, tie it directly back to what you found during the inspection. Frame it as a mutual effort to reach a fair outcome for both of you. This builds trust and makes for a much smoother, friendlier transaction.
Once you’ve shaken hands on a price, the paperwork is the last—and most critical—step. It protects both you and the seller. Never, ever hand over cash without getting a proper bill of sale. This is your official proof of ownership.
A bill of sale is a straightforward but vital document. It absolutely must include these details:
That serial number is non-negotiable. Before you finalise anything, it's a smart move to run that number through your state's marine authorities or an online database to check if it has been reported stolen. It’s a simple check that provides huge peace of mind, confirming you're walking away with a clean, legitimate purchase.
Even after you've done a thorough inspection, there are always a few lingering questions that come up when buying a second-hand outboard. Getting straight answers to these is the final piece of the puzzle, giving you the confidence to make a smart buy and secure a reliable motor for your adventures on Australian waters.
Let's dive into the questions we hear most often.
This is the big one, but there’s no magic number. The truth is, how an engine was maintained is far more important than the hours on the clock. A well-serviced four-stroke can easily push past 2000 hours and still be a dependable workhorse for years to come.
For the average recreational boater in Australia, an engine under 500 hours is considered pretty low. The 500-1500 hour range is far more common in the used market and is perfectly fine if the motor comes with a solid service history.
An engine with over 2000 hours isn’t an automatic write-off, but it absolutely needs a professional inspection and a flawless logbook to even be considered.
Always choose a motor with a detailed and consistent service log over one with slightly fewer hours and a completely unknown past. Maintenance trumps hours every single time.
Yes. One hundred percent. Unless you're a qualified marine mechanic yourself, paying for a pre-purchase inspection is the smartest money you'll spend in this entire process. It’s a small investment that can save you thousands down the track.
For just a few hundred dollars, a professional can plug in their diagnostic tools and give you the real story. They’ll uncover:
This report isn’t just for your peace of mind—it's a powerful negotiation tool. If the mechanic finds minor issues, you can use their findings to talk the seller down on the price.
The one thing you absolutely must have is a proper bill of sale. This is the non-negotiable document that proves you are the new legal owner. It needs to include the date, the full names and addresses of both you and the seller, the final agreed price, and a complete description of the motor.
That description must include the make, model, horsepower, and the full serial number. Make sure both of you sign it. It's also a good idea to ask for any original purchase documents and all the service records the owner has. This helps build a clear picture of the engine's life. A quick check of the serial number with marine authorities can also confirm it hasn't been reported stolen.
This really comes down to your boat, your budget, and how you’ll be using it. Old-school carbureted two-strokes are simple beasts—they’re light, punchy, and relatively easy for a DIYer to work on. The trade-off is they're noisy, smoky, and thirsty on fuel.
For most recreational boaters in Australia today, a well-looked-after four-stroke is the smarter choice for a second-hand outboard engine. They are worlds quieter, sip fuel, and are generally more reliable for day-to-day boating. Their main downside is weight, which is a critical factor for smaller tinnies and inflatable boats with strict transom weight limits.
Ready to find the perfect engine for your adventures on the water? At Easy Inflatables, we not only offer a premium range of inflatable boats but can also help you find a reliable Hidea outboard to match. Explore our range of boat and motor packages today!
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